"Waitress" serves up great songs, story, show

A musical titled “Waitress” is going to evoke all sorts of expectations. It will tell the story of a working girl, under appreciated, overworked, subsisting on tips and tenacity. Not exactly “9 to 5,” there will be some of the heroic aspects of a woman trapped by an economic system that exploits her, along with a welcoming world of co-workers. And all of that is in the John W. Engeman Theater’s production of this show first done on Broadway. But there is more, a lot more, in addition to a musical menu of great songs, including at least a few that could truly exist as singles played on radio, winning over their own following.

The John W. Engeman Theater may be designed to provide Broadway in Long Islanders’ backyard, but it’s not just a Broadway script. And the pleasure of parking easily is the least pleasure of seeing their productions. An Equity house with a reputation for quality, it also provides top talent and productions with sets that, even if you can’t sing them, your eyes can enjoy. The full house at the production I attended is proof that it truly is, or at least many believe it is, Broadway caliber without the commute. But the performance and production are the real proof in the pudding, or in this case, the baking. While many people may know that Sara Bareilles acted in the lead role on Broadway, few seem to know that she also wrote the music and lyrics.  Both are Broadway worthy and proof that she is not only a wonderful performer, but composer and lyricist. Jessie Nelson wrote a strong, succinct, funny, heart-felt book.

This production, smoothly directed by Marc Tumminelli, with set by Kyle Dixon and costumes by Dustin Cross, shows us a musical, magical world framed by what looks half like a postcard and half like a cake. It is a story, told with an emphatically female perspective, but after decades of musicals with a male perspective, it may be time for “Waitress” to wow audiences and let women take the steering wheel of the story. And it is  a story chock full of fun and funny characters and wonderful performances. While romance may be real, "Waitress" seems to say, as many other works of art do, that it is not necessary, not the sine qua non, for success, happiness and fulfillment.

At the risk of giving away some of the plot, our waitress Jenna (Chessa Metz) is married to a bit of a redneck. Jenna is a wholesome, yet harried woman, married to the wrong man, an immature, unsuccessful, frustrated man named Earl (Trevor St. John-Gilbert) who has his own name tattooed on his chest. He careens between abuse and annoying, with an occasional soft sweet moment, in a profile of a husband who thinks his wife is his property, a possession as much as a person. Jenna is trapped in her marriage and her smalltown blues, wishing nothing more than the chance to escape her husband. When she gets pregnant, she dreams of her own, new life with this baby. Metz is so likeable and believable that we at once root for her and believe she deserves the best, whatever that may be. A great baker, she makes pies at her restaurant, dreaming that pies will be the recipe of her success, when she hears about a baking contest.

Along the way, we meet hilarious characters, have a great time and learn that Sara Barreilles can not only act, but is an extremely gifted composer. Jenna meets the endearing, affectionate if somewhat awkward Dr. Pomatter, played by Jack Cahill-Lemme, almost out of central casting. It's a sort of rocky, somewhat reluctant romance written with great dialogue and presented with great performances. But in this women’s world, a man is not the necessary ticket to happiness. Suffice it to say that "Waitress" is a musical about female empowerment where a wedding ring does not need to be the ticket to a better life. And it is possible to have a happy ending without a wedding ceremony at the end to confirm a happily ever after that, probably, wouldn't happen anyway.

The male characters, as human beings, don’t quite measure up to the women in stature, although as performers it’s a uniformly excellent cast. Gregory North plays Joe, a customer chock full of advice and annoying orders, an observer of the drama, along with wonderful comic relief. Adam du Plessis as Cal is the lovable, if irascible, head of the restaurant. Matthew Dengler as Ogie is the endearingly awkward, awful poetry writing and quoting nerd who is so much fun to watch and hear. Overflowing with enthusiasm and the treacle of romance, he is part clown and all clumsy suitor. Kalea Leverette as Dawn is the young, somewhat naïve, object of Ogie’s affections. It’s just a lot of fun to watch these people working in the restaurant as they court and clash. They care about each other and we enjoy watching them, like a family, trying to figure out their lives amid financial pressures.

Throughout the musical, we hear a recipe for baking recited. It is simple. I’m not sure what the recipe for a good musical is, but this is one example The men, overall, are a little uniformly flawed and weak as people, but that is the world portrayed here. Women are the warriors, going to work every day and going to battle the injustice and insanity of a male-dominated world, while authority-wielding men lord it over them. In the end, Jenna finds success and, we hope, happiness. Does she find true love? Once upon a time, marriage or at least a match would be the definition and the expectation of the aspirational conclusion. This is a world where friends matter as much, and sometimes more than family, who may be far away.

The musical, while well structured, shows us doomed relationships more than romances. It does, however, have the ring of reality, which means the world is as it is, not necessarily as we want it to be. You won’t see Sara Bareilles on stage here, but you will see an absolutely great cast in a musical she co-wrote. It’s not an incredibly deep dive into character and the reality of working as a waitress. But it’s a great show, with great story, characters and songs. And you will see Sarah Barreilles the composer in full regalia. The John W. Engeman Theater certainly serves up a great production. Go if you want to have a good time an see great performers in a great show. And when the show is done, maybe go out for a bite, or even dessert. And if you see a waitress, give her the biggest tip of your life.